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A Sanjay Leela Bhansali canvas is incomplete without art, music, costume and most importantly, opulent jewellery. As Heeramandi: The Diamond Bazaar, Bhansali’s magnum opus drama series, is all set to release on May 1 on Netflix, the trailer of the drama series has already caught everyone’s attention for its spectacular cast and the costumes and jewellery they adorn.
Sanjay Leela Bhansali explored the collection, particularly captivated by the exquisite Basra pearls adorning pieces like the Pasa, Tika, Nath and necklaces. Honouring the legacy of handcrafted Mughal jewellery with unparalleled passion, this sixth-generation jewellery enterprise beautifully captured the mysteries of history engulfed in an era of timeless heritage with 10,000 opulent statement jewellery designs.
Crafting history with Sanjay Leela Bhansali’s magnum opus drama series, Heeramandi: The Diamond Bazaar, Vinay Gupta, founder, Shri Paramani Jewels, exclusively speaks to News18 about working with the ace filmmaker Sanjay Leela Bhansali and going back to their roots to craft pieces that celebrate the brand’s legacy.
Excerpts from the interview:
How did it feel crafting designs for the magnum opus series, Heeramandi: The Diamond Bazaar?
Renowned filmmaker Sanjay Leela Bhansali, intrigued by our craftsmanship, collaborated with us to create stunning jewellery pieces. When the project came to us, I knew it was the universe’s sign to make it happen. With our 200 year old history and heritage, no one but us could design it in the best way possible.
Describe your experience working with filmmaker Sanjay Leela Bhansali. Tell us about the journey from ideation to execution?
He [Sanjay Leela Bhansali] is an artist, he understands art and for us, jewellery making is an artform. The process started with us understanding the story, the narrative and then designing for each character in depth. A process that was not only driven by design but also understanding history, going back into the era and understanding each character.
Did Sanjay Leela Bhansali provide any creative inputs in the making of the Mughal jewellery designs?
He was fully involved and invested from the get go. He visited our showroom in Delhi, sat for hours, and planned each character. For us to witness a man of that calibre being so invested in each detail was a lesson for life.
How many pieces were designed for Heeramandi and how long did it take to create?
A magnanimous task. Over three years, our entire studio was dedicated to this. Three years, three rooms full of jewellery and days and nights full of craftsmanship were done to revive work that was done over 500 years ago. We worked day in and day out, just to bring the vision to reality. More than 10,000 pieces and more than 300 kgs of jewellery in total were crafted.
Handcrafting jewellery for an epic needs to be well researched, was the process challenging?
For me, it wasn’t challenging, but the joy of going back to my roots, heritage and legacy of being from a family of treasurers for the Mughals over 200 years back, was the highlight.
I went through numerous archival designs from our family tree, museums, and books. We actually used this project to bring our legacy to the forefront.
What interesting facts about Mughal jewellery did you discover?
Mughal jewellery history is rich and fascinating, showcasing exquisite craftsmanship and intricate designs. Mughal emperors were patrons of the arts and supported skilled artisans in creating elaborate jewellery pieces for themselves and their court.
Mughal jewellery featured a wide array of precious gemstones like diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and pearls, adding a luxurious touch to the pieces. Artisans employed innovative techniques like Kundan setting, filigree work, and enamel to create stunning patterns and textures on jewellery.
Mughal jewellery was considered a symbol of wealth and power by the royal family owning magnificent pieces passed down through generations. I discovered and celebrated the global influence the Mughal jewellery has left behind.
What were the things you had to keep in mind when you had to revive heirloom pieces?
To be authentic to design, to the era and to the narrative. Each piece actually is made, designed and worn in the most authentic way, hence transporting you to the era
What was the first thought that came to mind when you saw the star cast Manisha Koirala, Sonakshi Sinha, Sanjeeda Shaikh, etc, adorn the jewellery?
We have had all these actresses wear our jewellery on so many occasions, but this was special, as each piece they wore was designed for them and they are legendary in their own way. So, it was an experience to rejoice for the years to come.
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